With a lovely sunny day promised, I headed over to Dovedale for a strenuous hike over the hills. The popular car park was filling up fast with a procession of pilgrims destined to walk over the famous stepping stones. However, I went a different route, going up a path through gates and fields to the rear of the Izaak Walton Hotel which can still provide its guests exclusive permits for fishing a privately owned stretch of the famous Dove.
Rather than continue to Ilam, I turned right after the second field to walk across a couple of large fields then up through a little gap in the ridge behind a promontory rock, taking a short cut toward the site of St Bertram’s Well.
On the far side of this little rocky ridge the path wound slowly uphill before uniting with a footpath from below. It was not the easiest way I could have chosen, being like a narrow sheep track. One part was so slippery steep with exposed polished limestone that I had to sit on my bum and wriggle along. I’m no mountain goat!
I then walked steeply uphill to the right of a wall as far as a National Trust sign for Bunster Hill before crossing a field and walking along a track to Ilamtops Farm. A right here and I was heading along the drive to Air Cottage. Perched high up on the side of the dale I was told this house was constructed in the 18th century by someone with a serious lung condition. Not having the money to go to a sanatorium in mountainous Switzerland for expensive treatment, he had this house built in an area then known as Little Switzerland and called it Air Cottage because up here he would have clean air to breath. Truth or fiction I know not. One fact for sure is that the stunning views from up there take your breath away!
Following a fingerpost sign and guide posts I skirted beneath Air Cottage and began the lengthy and somewhat arduous path along the top of Dovedale, at times being provided with sneaky peeks of glorious views through trees to rock formations. Thorpe Cloud behind me looked amazingly like a giant sphinx.
I was mindful of tripping up or falling along the narrow path where one minute spiky bramble strands scratched at my legs and the next minute they were being caressed by tall overhanging grasses. On arrival at a junction of paths and a sign for Ilam I began the descent proper, aided by a multitude of steps. Down and down I went through a dense covering of trees, some sadly dead from ash dieback. I could hear lots of voices from far below as most visitors were following the riverside path. In fact, I had only passed one person since setting off.
Eventually I arrived at river level and turned right to walk the short distance to Ilam Rock and Pickering Tor where a footbridge led me over the river, crossing from Staffordshire into Derbyshire.
Delightful Dovedale never fails to impress, with picture postcard scenes around every corner. Walking beside the river that was gurgling over rocks and stones was idyllic, even if I did have to share it with other happy hikers, children exploring and having fun on their holidays, picnickers on grassy banks dining alfresco and dogs paddling in the river to keep cool. I simply joined the merry throng, greeting everyone with a little smile whilst listening in nosily to their conversations.
Dovedale is renowned for its money trees with coins glistening in the sunshine. There used to be just pennies pushed in to the tree stumps but I noticed some fifty pence pieces and even pound coins. It must be inflation!
I went up and Over Lovers Leap with my gaze cast downward at the flags of limestone containing ‘nuts and bolts’ crinoid fossils.
The stepping stones appeared to have been repaired following their much publicised closure after flooding washed away some of the raised tops. I carefully stretched over the gaps, trying all the while not to slip into the Dove. Would I be washed away if I did? No, just my pride would be dampened and my boots be awash.
The stroll back to the car park was followed by a super duper ice cream cornet from one of the mobile food kiosks. Oh happy days!
Sally Mosley
FOOTNOTE BY NELLIE:
I’M BORED! Mum went off again without me, even though I wriggled, jiggled and begged to go with her. My leg is so much better now and the cone of shame has been taken off. I’m on the mend but my walks are still restricted to potters around the village. Roll on autumn is all I can say because then I’m going to run free. Did you know that the fastest dog in the world was a greyhound recorded in Australia at 41.83 miles an hour? That’s a jog compared to how quick I’m going to be when I finally get allowed off the lead. Just you wait and see! xx
Comments